Anthony Bourdain once said that good food is very often, if not most often, simple food.
Whether it’s a fillet of steak, a bowl of well-salted fries, or a sticky toffee pudding completely slathered in sauce – we’ve all got a classic and uncomplicated dish that we can’t help but love.
But when a simple dish is made at a Michelin star standard, it can quickly take a good food experience to an entirely different level.
It’s that approach to simplicity that sits at the heart of Farlam Hall’s new Bistro Enkel.
Based just outside Brampton, the bistro launched hot on the heels of the hall’s recent Michelin star success with its main restaurant, The Cedar Tree by chef patron Hirishikesh Desai.
While Bistro Enkel operates in the same space as The Cedar Tree, it is an alternative casual dining addition to what’s already on offer at the hall.
Even its name echo’s its focus on simplicity – as it comes from the Scandinavian translation of the word ‘simple’ and is derived from the Old Norse influences on Cumbrian dialect.
In contrast to the set menu available at The Cedar Tree – those dining at the bistro can expect an itemised menu, offering small bites, starters, mains, sides and desserts along with a drinks list to choose from.
The hall has also employed a new kitchen team to run the bistro, which is open for service from Sunday to Tuesday before the Michelin starred Cedar Tree takes over the kitchen from Wednesday to Saturday.
We were invited to try out the new eatery on a Sunday evening, so we went along to find out just how good simple food can actually be.
Bistro Enkel is open only for dinner from 6pm until 8.15pm and it wouldn’t be wrong of you to think a Sunday night could get a little quiet.
But somewhat to our surprise, the bistro’s tables were mostly filled and even some of the larger tables were occupied with groups.
Despite operating in the same space as The Cedar Tree, there is a clear difference in atmosphere thanks to relaxed chart music playing and less-formal table set-ups.
There’s over 30 items on the menu and guests can either order one course at a time – or if you’re over excited like us – you can order your food as one big long indulgent list.
The menu begins with ‘tiny bites’, an option that is comparable to snacks offered at the start of a traditional fine dining taster menu.
They’re also advertised as ideal to share – if you’re willing that is.
We opt for the charcuterie platter, which features prosciutto crudo, spianata romano and salami milano, served with pickles, bread and butter and a 10 year aged balsamic and extra virgin olive oil dip.
It’s the most expensive ‘tiny bite’ on the menu, and comes alongside other options including marinated nocarella olives, spicy garbanzo bean chaat and nachos with herb cream cheese or chorizo cream cheese.
As a self-proclaimed pickle lover, Bistro Enkel’s way of serving pickles diced, dressed and comparable to a condiment is well and truly spoon-straight-into-the-mouth worthy.
Both the bread and meat are also faultless – seriously, both The Cedar Tree and Bistro Enkel really know how to make perfect bread and butter – and leave you feeling energised for your next course.
After we’ve finished filling ourselves with wine and pickles – we move on to the starters.
We choose the crispy tofu in a smoked sweet and sour sauce served with rocket leaves and coriander as well as the duck liver pate served with port jelly and warm brioche.
Both are around the medium price range of the starters on offer and while the tofu is a more casual dish, the duck liver pate is strikingly similar to the glossy deep red shelled duck liver parfait served in The Cedar Tree.
But it’s a welcomed cross over and paired with the brioche, it’s a real stand-out dish that’s a good reminder of how The Cedar Tree earned its Michelin star.
Before the crispy tofu arrives at the table we start to chat about what it might be like – tofu is a notoriously difficult ingredient to master, not that we doubted the kitchen, but we were definitely intrigued by it.
Served in a bowl and piping hot, the tofu comes pleasantly drenched in oh-so-familiar sweet and sour sauce and served with an assortment of garnish and vegtables.
But let me be clear – yes, it’s a sauce we’re all familiar with, but that fine dining elevation through a strong depth of flavour and sophisticated cooking technique is really noticeable.
Both Bistro Enkel and The Cedar Tree also use vegetables grown on site, so all the dishes are noticeably ‘fresher’ and not stodgy like a guilty-pleasure takeaway.
The tofu is also something to write home about, with a crisp coat on one side offering crunch alongside a nice silky texture once bitten, it’s a real treat for the tastebuds.
But once we move onto the main courses, I begin to worry slightly.
When we first ordered our food, our waiter gave me a playful warning when I picked out the ‘Tandoori’ paneer and vegetable skewers cooked over charcoal with chickpea curry.
He asks me with a smile if I’m okay with spicy food, to which I say absolutely. I do love a low-brow Scoville shocker hot sauce, so I’m no stranger to heat.
But it does still fill you with nerves, nobody wants to be sweating over their food, especially when you’re in a fine dining restaurant.
But when the food was whisked out to us, the heat was a pleasant surprise.
Instead of burning your mouth out, the dish almost walks you through the spices – which is something the Michelin Guide inspectors picked up on in The Cedar Tree.
They describe chef Desai’s food as ‘deftly spiced and technically precise’ and that is upheld in Bistro Enkel’s food.
We also order the most expensive main on the menu, which is the 8 oz fillet of beef served with grilled garnish and red wine sauce. With an extra side of fries just for fun.
It’s really a faultless dish and the meat almost falls apart when cut it’s so tender. But bizarrely, it’s the fries that give me an unexpected, but welcome shock.
Is it possible for fries to taste fresh? Apparently so. They’re much lighter than a fast food fry, and almost feel airy.
Again, it’s one of those nation-favourite foods that when put in the hands of talented chefs, turn into something totally special.
Main options also on the menu include herb gnocchi, served with provençal style vegetables, pot roast pork belly served with creamed potatoes, spinach and mushrooms and kung pao sauce, a braised feather blade of beef served with creamed potatoes, spinach and mushrooms and braising juices.
Classic beer battered cod ‘fish n chips’ served with mushy peas and tartar sauce is also on the menu, along with pan roasted fillet of seasonal fish served with grilled garnish and a truffle cream sauce.
Sides on the menu include mushy peas, creamed potatoes, buttered spinach, mixed leaf salad in an English vinaigrette and mixed wild mushrooms.
But the portion sizes are quite generous, so we didn’t feel much need for much extra additional food.
After spending some time chatting with the attentive waiters between courses, we’re told that the restaurant is going through a bit of a busy period.
It’s not surprising – as alongside its Michelin star and AA rosette, the hall also scooped the title of The Times and The Sunday Times Foodie Hotel of the Year.
For dessert – we opt for the valrhona chocolate delice, served with milk ice cream and the classic sticky toffee pudding, served with vanilla ice cream and a generous amount of warm caramel sauce.
All the desserts on offer are priced the same which includes the lemon posset served with berries, candied nuts and raspberry sorbet – with the exception of the selection of three British farmhouse cheeses served with crunchy celery, biscuits and chutney that is offered at a higher price.
The chocolate delice is a total delight to look at and even more so to eat. It’s exactly how you imagine it to taste and is like a slice of layered smooth chocolate heaven.
But, in true Cumbrian fashion, it’s the sticky toffee pudding that leaves us really impressed.
The sponge is light, airy and perfect. It’s flat sandcastle shape also allows it to soak up the sweet, but not extremely so, sauce, but not enough to make the cake feel soggy or sickly.
And as with all sticky toffee pudding, the addition of the ice cream gives it the perfect cold but warm balance, which refreshes the dish.
It’s a perfect end to a real showstopper meal and with it all taking place in such a relaxed environment, with plenty of surrounding chatter, you’re able to really sink into your seat and let your stomach rest that bit more.
While it is a relaxed, casual environment – the bistro dress code is smart casual and does not accept guests wearing short trousers, flip flops or sliders, so you may have to forgo the sweatpants.
But overall, Bistro Enkel is another impressive jewel in Farlam Hall’s crown.
